Paying respects at 10 Temples in Ayutthaya: Travel and make merit while picking up fun historical tidbits that you can actually tell your friends (not the kind of history you memorize for an archaeology exam at Silpakorn University). When visiting the ancient city of Ayutthaya, we have to start with this song: "Ayutthaya, our ancient city of old, with a heavy heart I tell its story. Ayutthaya, once as vibrant as gold, a land for the Thai kin of old... Oh ye ye ye..."
Well, singing an old song but ending with "Oh ye"? It makes it sound modern! That's because "Sookjai Weekend" by Sawasdee Online Publishing had the chance to wander around and taste delicious food in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, which is just a tinyyyyy bit away from Bangkok.
Nowadays, Ayutthaya is filled with modernity amidst the ruins of the old city. That's why singing an Ayutthaya song needs an "Oh ye" at the end.
With just 1-2 days off, you can visit temples all over. For the ancient city of Ayutthaya, a legacy from the first capital of Thailand, the land of Siam, it's nearly 700 years old. There are hundreds of temples, old, active, and abandoned. Visiting them all would be impossible. Let's pick the temples that people love to visit for merit-making, leading to the tradition of visiting 9 or 10 temples.
Come and ask for blessings from the sacred beings in Ayutthaya.
Wat Phanan Choeng
Before entering the Ayutthaya city island, stop by Wat Phanan Choeng. Come and pay respects to Sam Po Kong, or Luang Pho To of Wat Phanan Choeng, the largest Buddha statue in Ayutthaya that survived being burned down by the Burmese army, which had set up camp at this temple. This Luang Pho To has a lap width of 14.2 meters.
Wat Phanan Choeng is very popular among Chinese tourists visiting Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya due to the hundreds of years of Thai-Chinese relations. There's the legend of Princess Soi Dok Mak, a Chinese princess who traveled by junk and met her end in front of this temple. The Princess Soi Dok Mak Shrine remains to this day.
The story of Princess Soi Dok Mak dates back to when the area was still Ayothaya Sri Ramathep Nakhon, even before the founding of the Ayutthaya Kingdom.
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
Visiting Wat Yai won't disappoint. You can pay respects to Phra Phuttha Chai Mongkhon, reclining Buddhas, sitting Buddhas, and even King Naresuan. This temple is truly "Yai" (Grand). The center point is the most beautiful chedi in Ayutthaya. No matter which angle you look from, it's a slender bell-shaped chedi that is perfectly proportioned.
It was in the main chedi of this temple that the Phra Phuttha Chai Mongkhon Katha, or the Phahung Chant, was found. It is used to praise the eight victories. Today, it is chanted after the morning and evening prayers.
Besides the chedi King Naresuan built to celebrate his victory over the Burmese city of Hongsawadee, the temple also has a reclining Buddha within the ruins of an old vihara for worship.
Phu Khao Thong
Circling the city from the southwest to the northwest, not far away, you'll find the Phu Khao Thong Chedi standing prominently in the middle of a field. King Bayinnaung of Burma initiated its construction when Ayutthaya first fell, but it later became one of the sacred pillars of spirit for the people of Ayutthaya. Even today, many people still visit to pay their respects.
Furthermore, the Phu Khao Thong in Ayutthaya served as the model for the Golden Mount (Phu Khao Thong) at Wat Saket in Bangkok.
Wat Mongkhon Bophit
Next to the ruined Wat Phra Si Sanphet is Wat Mongkhon Bophit. Visiting this temple ensures you'll get to pay respects to a massive Buddha statue because the ancient vihara (bottom image) has been fully restored. Phra Mongkhon Bophit is a large Buddha with a lap width of about 8 meters. Originally, it was an outdoor Buddha, and the vihara was built later.
Once at Wat Mongkhon Bophit, don't forget to visit the market and shop. The Wat Mongkhon Bophit Market is full of delicious things that are hard to find in Bangkok or other provinces. Every time "Sookjai Weekend" visits, I can't resist buying water chestnuts, buffalo horn water caltrops, roti sai mai, or milk toffee with nuts to enjoy back at the hotel.
Wat Mae Nang Pluem
"Sookjai Weekend" is absolutely charmed by Wat Mae Nang Pluem because it is a small, old temple that doesn't get as many tourists as others. It has an "authentic" Ayutthaya-era temple vibe. Just stepping into the temple, you feel it—whether it's the exterior or interior of the vihara, the main Buddha statue, or the lion-surrounded chedi at the back. It feels very nostalgic, while other temples have been restored so much that they've lost their original atmosphere, even if they are older than Wat Mae Nang Pluem.
The local folklore of this temple mentions Grandma Pluem, an elderly woman of Ayutthaya who was lucky enough to receive patronage from King Naresuan. The story goes that Grandma Pluem welcomed the King, who had rowed his boat alone late at night during a light rain. Since people in the Ayutthaya era had never seen the King's face before, Grandma Pluem told King Naresuan:
"Don't make such a loud noise, dear. If the King hears you, he'll scold you."
King Naresuan probably liked what he heard, so he said to Grandma Pluem:
"Well, bring me some liquor. I'm cold from being in the rain."
Grandma Pluem immediately refused:
"I can't do that. Today is a Buddhist Sabbath day; it's forbidden to drink. It's against the precepts. The King will scold you."
King Naresuan kept insisting until Grandma Pluem gave in, telling him:
"Alright, alright. I'll let you drink, but don't go telling anyone. Otherwise, the King will scold you."
King Naresuan then brought Grandma Pluem to be cared for in the palace for the rest of her life. Even after she passed away, he ordered the construction of this temple and named it Wat Mae Nang Pluem.
Wat Thammikarat
This temple's highlight is the Buddha head known as the Thammikarat Head. It has the characteristics of a Buddha statue influenced by Lopburi art. However, the Thammikarat head that tourists love to photograph is a replica. The real Thammikarat head is on display at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum. If you want to see the real thing, you have to go to the museum on the city island.
It's said to be an old temple dating back to the son of Prince Sai Nam Phueng, even before the founding of Ayutthaya as the capital.
In the image are the ruins of the large ordination hall. The lion-surrounded chedi is exactly like the one at Wat Mae Nang Pluem. It was likely built during the same period. There's also a reclining Buddha hall that people have continuously visited to pay respects and ask for blessings.
Wat Klang Khlong Sa Bua
People who have visited and asked for blessings in the old city of Ayutthaya say they found success at Wat Klang Khlong Sa Bua. Hearing this, I had to come and pay respects immediately! "Sookjai Weekend" intended to ask Luang Pho Thanjai for a beautiful, fair-skinned, and cute girlfriend with a slender, curved figure like the chedi at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon. Upon arrival, I learned that Luang Pho Thanjai is a small Buddha statue that many people come to worship.
Wat Na Phra Men
This is one temple that was not destroyed by the Burmese army when Ayutthaya fell in 1767. It's an early Ayutthaya-period temple, possibly built during the reign of King Ramathibodi II. Originally, it was the site for building the royal crematorium (Phra Men) for a King of Ayutthaya.
People who come to worship can pay respects to Phra Phuttha Nimit Wichit Marat, a crowned Buddha statue from the Ayutthaya period, and the Green Stone Buddha, or Phra Gandhararat, sitting with his feet down. The latter was moved from Wat Mahathat during the restoration in the reign of King Rama III. It is a Dvaravati-period stone Buddha sitting with feet down, one of only five in Thailand.
Inside the ordination hall, there are also mural paintings remaining from the reign of King Rama III.
Wat Phutthaisawan
Let's continue merit-making at Wat Phutthaisawan. This temple is located along the Chao Phraya River, not on the city island but on the "Patha Khu Cham" side. The word "Patha" in the Thai dictionary is only found as "Pra Tha," meaning the opposite bank. Patha Khu Cham was the site of Wiang Lek, the first residence of King Uthong when he arrived in Ayutthaya. He then ordered the construction of this temple to commemorate his original residence.
In addition to the late Ayutthaya-period prang-style chedi that has become the symbol of Wat Phutthaisawan, there are other sacred items that survived the looting and destruction by the Burmese army in 1767.
Wat Pradu Songtham
Travel to pay respects to Luang Pho Rung, Luang Pho Rueang, Luang Pho Ruay, and Luang Pho Rot (Suea), four important Buddha statues enshrined in the vihara of Wat Pradu Songtham, also known as Wat Pradu Rong Tham. Legend has it that the monks of this temple helped King Songtham escape an assassination attempt by Japanese residents in Ayutthaya. He then ordered the provision of savory and sweet food for the monks of Wat Pradu Songtham for the rest of his reign to repay their kindness.
The tempera mural paintings from the reign of King Rama IV on the vihara walls of Wat Pradu Songtham are prominent in the section depicting the cremation of the Buddha's body (Buddha's life story). Notably, there are paintings of various performances within the ceremony. If you look closely, you'll see plays, Chinese opera, and various acrobatics (not shown in the provided images).
It is believed that within Wat Pradu Songtham, there is a chedi containing the royal ashes of King Songtham.
That concludes the tour of paying respects at 10 temples in Ayutthaya, merit-making while learning fun historical tidbits. Ayutthaya is just this close, travel costs are inexpensive, and there's plenty of delicious food. You can travel to pay respects every week.
