อ่านภาษาไทย
Travel to Ayutthaya, unveiling the legend of Chedi Nak Leng at Wat Sam Pluem, but not Wat Sam Pluem in Bangkok. The Wat Sam Pluem in question refers to Wat Sam Pluem in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya province. Now, only a large chedi remains in the middle of the road. Anyone who comes will see it first because it is located before Pridi Damrong Bridge, the entrance to Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Island.
It is a large chedi, so large that the road has to make way for it, becoming a roundabout chedi that Ayutthaya people have been calling Chedi Nak Leng. Local stories tell that a group of gangsters refused to let anyone destroy the chedi, so the road had to be built around it. Some say it is a large chedi, and cars have to drive around it, so it has always been called Chedi Nak Leng.
But the location of Wat Sam Pluem cannot be known because only this chedi has remained for a long time.
After the change of government in 1932, Luang Pradit Manutham or Mr. Pridi Banomyong, one of the leaders of the People's Party, held the position of Minister of Finance and was a major force in supporting the enactment of the Act on the Transfer of Land Ownership, which was public property and abandoned temples, within the city walls of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Province in 1938. This Act may have contributed to the destruction of hundreds of ancient sites in the heart of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Island.
The eastern city wall of the island
Section 3 of the Act
Section 3 of the Act specifies the transfer of land ownership within the city walls (the entire island), covering an area of approximately 4,500 rai. The Ministry of Finance at that time managed to sell the land to people who wanted to build houses on the island, resulting in the demolition of many ancient sites.
In addition, Mr. Pridi also supported the construction of Pridi Damrong Bridge and the relocation of Ayutthaya Wittayalai School to the center of the island. Later, Ayutthaya Island became the provincial government center of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya.
Because Chedi Wat Sam Pluem or Chedi Nak Leng is a large chedi located outside the island, outside the original city walls, and is also a transportation route, the land in that area was not sold to private individuals according to the intention of the Act.
Viharn Phra Non, Wat Phanomyong
Mr. Pridi Banomyong was born in Ayutthaya and had a residence near Wat Phanomyong (the old city map from the reign of King Rama V, by Phraya Boran Ratchathanin, calls it Wat Phanom Yong). During the reign of King Rama VI, he had the royal idea for people to find surnames. Mr. Pridi's family used the name of Wat Phanomyong as their surname. Later, many people mistakenly believed that Wat Phanomyong was the family temple of Mr. Pridi.
Chedi Wat Sam Pluem in the middle of Rojana Road
📸 To take beautiful and colorful photos of Chedi Wat Sam Pluem, you may have to wait for darkness to fall. It is recommended to take pictures of Ayutthaya at night because the chedi will be decorated with lights, which is more beautiful than daytime photos.
Field Marshal P. Pibulsonggram at the ancient site of Phu Khao Thong in 1956. Image from the book "Picture Book of the Old City, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Province Before 1957," published in 2020.
Image from the book "Record of the Achievements of the Government of Field Marshal P. Pibulsonggram Between 1948-1956," published in 1957.
Even though it was not demolished, Chedi Wat Sam Pluem at that time was probably in a very dilapidated condition. Chedi Wat Sam Pluem was first restored during the time of Field Marshal P. Pibulsonggram as Prime Minister. It was the first era of the establishment of the Ministry of Culture, elevated from the National Culture Council, with the Fine Arts Department as an agency under its jurisdiction. Many ancient sites were excavated in Sukhothai, Nakhon Ratchasima, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, and Chiang Rai. Some academics believe that the excavation of ancient sites at that time was a political matter, as Field Marshal P. Pibulsonggram wanted to divert public attention to national history due to the instability of the government.
Luang Pho Wat Mongkol Bophit
Specifically in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Province, in addition to receiving financial support for the restoration of Phra Mongkol Bophit from President U Nu of the Union of Burma (the Prime Minister of the Union of Burma traveled to apologize for the ruins in person to build good relations with Thailand), the Thai government also approved a budget of up to ten million baht for the restoration of Viharn Phra Mongkol Bophit, the Ancient Palace, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Phra Ram, Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, Chedi Chao Ai Chao Yi, the Elephant Kraal, etc., and focused on developing Ayutthaya Island into a tourist destination.
Chedi Wat Sam Pluem is located on Rojana Road before Pridi Damrong Bridge, the gateway to Ayutthaya Island. The construction of this road destroyed many ancient sites of Ayutthaya, such as Wat Kho, Wat Phao Khao, Wat Chingchok, Wat Siam Rat, Wat Tha Chin, Wat So Chae, Wat Nang Chi, Wat Mae Nang Muk, as well as the construction of the Provincial Hall, the Youth Detention Center, the Agricultural College, the Teachers College, Ayutthaya Wittayalai School, etc., in the area of Ayutthaya Island, destroying Wat Pa Fai, Wat Khok Kamin, Wat Khun Phrom, Wat Lao, Wat Pa Chan, Wat Sala Chao Thong, and other temples.
The project to restore ancient sites in Thailand, especially in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Province, by Field Marshal P. Pibulsonggram continued until the coup d'état in 1957, led by Field Marshal Sarit Thanarat, to overthrow the government of Field Marshal P. Pibulsonggram (second term), marking the end of the power of Field Marshal P. Pibulsonggram and the People's Party, which had been influential since the change of government.
